Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani …Fraternal Twins

By Savio D'costa

Mahabaleshwar & Panchgani are twin hill stations at a height of 4000 feet separated by 18 km nestled in the Sahyadari hills in the Western ghats. However they could not be more different.

Located 120 km from Pune & 285 km from Mumbai, Mahabaleshwar is thronged by thousands of tourists all year round. Being a premier honeymoon destination it gets tourists even during monsoon season even though it receives among the highest rainfall in the world. Personally I love Mahabaleshwar during the monsoons. The dense fog & numerous waterfalls you see on your drive up will make you feel you are in heaven.

Mahabaleshwar gets it name from the Mahabaleshwar temple in old Mahabaleshwar. According to the resident Pandit, the site is over 5000 years old and was consecrated by the guru of the Kaurava’s and the Pandava’s. The shape of the ling is a volcanic protrusion that looks like a Rudraksha and it has a diameter of about eight feet. Within the ling you can see pools of water which the Pandit says is from five rivers whose confluence, the Panchganga is nearby. It also is the source of the river Krishna.

It is a trekker’s paradise and there are numerous trails for novices or experts. Most tourists will visit Arthur’s seat. There are a number of steps that lead to it. Enroute you will pass echo point & tigers spring. At Arthur’s seat you can buy bottle caps. When you flip these high in the air, air currents will bring them back to you. You can also take a boat ride on the famous Venna Lake.

Mahabaleshwar is strawberry country and 90% of the strawberry output in India comes from here. You will be welcome to visit a farm and some farms will even let you pluck your own strawberries. You might be interested to know that the strawberry plant is a member of the rose family and that it is the only fruit with seeds on the outside!

You can also visit a bee keeping farm. It is a government initiative to give the farmers a second source of income. A wooden box with frames inside is given with a queen bee. Other bees will then inhabit the box. When the queen bee is removed the bees move to the new box. The honey can than be extracted. This does away with the practice of smoking the hive and killing the bees to get the honey. Patil the beekeeper will remove the frame from the wooden box and show you the queen bee. You will not be stung as long as you stay away from the flight path of the bees.

No visit to Mahabaleshwar will be complete without going to Pratapgad, the hill fort of the guerilla warfare king Shivaji. It takes over 400 steps to get you on the top. This is where Shivaji killed the general Afzal Khan with tiger claws.

Mahabaleshwar has a quaint market where you can buy all types of jams, crushes, jelly sweets and fudge. On the way to Panchgani you can visit Mapro’s jam factory and even get a factory discount. You can see the manufacture of jams or confectionaries and even taste the various crushes and squashes before buying. No wonder it records over 12 lakh footfalls a year!

On the other hand Panchgani is a quiet boarding school town. There were only 7 boarding schools here 30 years ago. I am an ex-student of St Peter’s boarding school. Today there are 42.

It has been the favorite location of the bollywood film industry for decades. I can still recall on my way for football practice to tableland seeing the filming of Mausam starring Sharmila Tagore and Sanjeev Kumar. The director was traipsing between the tall pine trees near tableland showing the couple what to do. ( Video from film Mausam courtesy Eros films ).Recently movies like Dhamal have been filmed here.

If you love to be far from the madding crowd, you will not find a better place than Panchgani. You can take long walks to Parsi Point, Sydney point or to Panchgani’s crowning glory – Tableland. It is nearly 8 km long and is Asia’s 2nd largest plateau after Tibet.

For me and I am sure many share my sentiments, Panchgani is heaven on earth!

Fatehpur Sikhri… City of Victory ?

By Savio D'costa

Not many tourists visiting Agra to see the Taj Mahal, take the time and effort to visit a jewel 40 km away. For a brief period, over 400 years ago during the golden age of the moughal empire, for 12 years, Fatehpur Sikri was the center of the moughal world. You can hardly imagine that behind all the dust, pollution and population of Agra there exists a city still lying intact since the time it was abandoned due to shortage of water.

Our tour begins with a ride in a battery operated bus. No petrol or diesel vehicle is allowed to operate within a few km of the site. Samir my guide explained that Fatehpur Sikri, the city of victory was built as a planned city by Emperor Akbar. He built the city on the site that Sufi saint Salim Chisti prophesied that the emperor would have a son. He even named his son Salim after the Sufi saint. History buffs will never cease to be amazed that in spite of Emperor Akbar’s hectic schedule, he took personal interest in the building of the city.

The construction of Fatehpur Sikri took 14 years. Emperor Akbar was a secular king this is evident in the architecture of the buildings at this site. Fatehpur Sikri is built on a rocky plateau, and is surrounded by a 6 km wall on 3 sides and is strengthened by towers. It has 7 gates. Most of the monuments are built from red sandstone as this was easily available from quarries nearby. The architecture is a combination of Indian, Persian and Muslim styles.

Samir stopped us in a great courtyard. In the center is a pool. He said just imagine Emperor Akhbar relaxing in the evening listening to Tansen, the greatest singer of his time performing on an island in the center of the pool the “Anup Talao”. According to Samir, Akhbar’s three queens used to observe the proceedings from their pavilions. Each had their own place of worship within their residences. According to Samir one of Emperor’s queen’s was a Christian from Goa!

He showed us the Diwan-i-Am, the Hall of Public Audience. This is where Emperor Akbar dispensed justice to his people, the Daulat Khana (Imperial Palace), Diwan-i-Kas (Hall of Private Audience), and the treasury. The grand Buland Darwaza, completed in 1575, celebrated the victory (conquering of Gujarat). Fatehpur Sikhri was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.

Despite being lived in for only 10 years the English traveller Ralph Fitch found in 1585 it was 'considerably larger than London and more populous', comprised a series of palaces, public buildings and mosques, as well as living areas for the court, the army, servants of the king and for an entire population whose history has not been recorded’. The city was abandoned due to lack of water for its increasing population.

Nothing brings out the grandeur, magic and mystique of Fatehpur Sikri as much as the film Jodha Akhbar starring Aishwarya Rai and Hritik Roshan and filmed on location at Fatehpur Sikhri. Hearing the soulful sufi song accompanied by dancing dervishes on a moonlit night will give you Goosebumps! ( Video, courtesy UTI motion pictures ) This is a visit which will definitely be worth your while.

Hampi … a city uncovered

 By Savio D'costa

Cambodia or Peru? Sharing a similar fate with some lost civilizations, Hampi lay undiscovered for more than 200 years surrounded by jungle growth, a city buried underground. The ruins cover an area of about 25 sq km and was declared a UNESCO protected site in 1986. When Captain John Mackenzie visited the site in 1799, he described the area as abandoned and inhabited by wild beasts. So where is Hampi and what experiences does it offer for today’s intrepid visitors?

Located in the state of Karnataka, Hampi can be accessed by air (Hubli airport), train (Hospet Station), car (about 350 kms from Bangalore, 150 kms from Hubli, 800 kms from Mumbai and 360 kms from Hyderabad).

My guide, Anil Gowde has lived in Hampi all his life. He recalls playing here as a child but had no clue about the magnitude or importance of the ruins. We stayed across the river from Hampi which is a short boat ride away.

As we climb the ridge, we are greeted by a barren rocky landscape. The hillside is dotted with boulders, big and small. Hampi was the last capital of the last great Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagar. Gowde explains that the numerous stone temples were built between the 14th and 16th century. The Vittala Temple complex is the grandest monument in Hampi built over a span of fifty years. Within the complex is an open pillared hall with fifty-six stone pillars that emit different musical notes when struck. Courtesans would dance in the courtyard while the musicians would play music on these pillars. Our group’s dancing skills are not tested this time!.

Another Hampi attraction is the Stone Chariot which appears to mark Hampi’s distinct military history. Legend has it that two brothers, Hukka and Bukka were on a hunting expedition when they saw their dogs being chased by a hare. Their guru saw this as a sign and asked them to set up a city on the site. So the Vijayanagara empire was born in about 1336. Over the next 200 years, four dynasties ruled the kingdom and over 300 stone temples were built.

In earlier times, Hampi was one of the largest trading centers with a global reputation. At the height of its success, the kingdom covered all of South India. Historians dispute the ruin of Hampi, some crediting the Deccan Muslim confederacy’s takeover in 1565 while others suggest that the Vijayanagara rulers left the city in ruin which was escalated by subsequent conquests and abandonment.

Domingo Paes was a Portuguese traveller who visited the Vijayanagara Empire around the year 1520. He wrote "The size of this city I do not write here, because it cannot all be seen from any one spot, but I climbed a hill whence I could see a great part of it; I could not see it all because it lies between several ranges of hills. What I saw from thence seemed to me as large as Rome, and very beautiful to the sight… He also wrote "This is the best provided city in the world, and is stocked with provisions such as rice, wheat, grains, …..

But for pilgrims, Hampi’s past is shrouded in the mists of time. Hampi is said to have evolved from Pampa, the ancient name of the river Tungabhadra. Lord Shiva was so impressed with Pampa’s penance that he offered her a boon. Pampa chose to marry Lord Shiva. Hampi is also reputed to have a connection to the Ramayana.

When Lord Rama and Lakshman were searching for Sita, they visited Hampi where they met Hanuman, the general of the monkey king who was born here. With his monkey army, Hanuman built a bridge to Lanka and rescued Sita.

Hampi is clouded in myth and military stories but one thing is certain. Hampi offers the intrepid visitor a new way of seeing and feeling the beautiful stone city. Hampi is best explored on foot so be prepared to walk and spend more than a day!

Golconda Fort … a story of ‘true grit’

By Savio D'costa

Standing among the ruins of Golconda Fort evokes images of the past … an age of wealth, grandeur and treachery. Our guide, Abdul Hameed, helps brings the story to life as we enter the outermost gateway called Fateh Darwaza, the Victory Gate, embedded with iron spikes to prevent the charge of elephants during war times.

The story of the Fort, is a tale that spans 800 years. Built across three different dynasties, the Qutub Shahi’s are credited for transforming a humble mud fort into a marvelous granite wonder.

Legend has it that in 1143 a shepherd boy found an idol on the hill near Hyderabad. When the Kakitiya king heard this, he erected a mud fort on the spot. Hence the name “Golla Konda” (Shepherd’s Hill). This was the Qutub Shahi’s capital till water shortages forced them to move to what we now know as Old Hyderabad.

Abdul Hameed guides us to the center of the entrance portal, abruptly stops and claps his hands. Apparently the sound of one’s clapping can be heard at the top of the hill. This acoustical wonder is certainly one of the highlights of the tour.

Our climb to the top of the fort takes 45 minutes. Our exhaustion is short-lived for at the top we are treated to a panoramic view of Hyderabad. The fort is built on a granite hill, about 400 feet above ground. It has a 10 km long outer wall and three internal layers of massive fortification walls which rise over 40 feet. The outer wall is surrounded by a deep moat. The Fort is truly a grand design with 87 bastions with canons mounted on them, eight gateways, four drawbridges, temples, palaces and mosques … a secure city within a fort! As we reach the top of the hill, we can hear the sound of clapping by tourists who have just entered the portal.

The Fort was considered impregnable till it was attacked by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in about 1687. After a siege of over nine months a traitor inside the fort opened a gate and let the enemy in. Although in ruin, Golconda Fort is an architectural wonder of a time past and considered one of the seven wonders of Andhra Pradesh. The sound and light show held in the Fort’s courtyard brings its past glory to life and is an evening well spent.

( Video courtesy of HyderabadPlanet.com )

Mundgod …. Little Tibet

By Savio Dcosta

Did you know that Mundgod, a small town some 41 kilometres from Hubli in Karnataka is home to one of the highest concentration of Tibetans outside Tibet?

When you arrive in Mundgod, you feel as if you are in Tibet. The landscape is dotted with multi-colored monasteries decorated with yellow and red rooftops. Our guide monk, Saldrine is an American woman who has lived at Doeguling Tibetan Settlement for a number of years and is happy to show us around. I make it a point to meet Saldrine on my occasional trips as she is eager to to converse in English during my short time. As we enter the courtyard, Saldrine gives us a background of the Settlement.

The 1950 Chinese invasion of Tibet is a dark period in Tibetan history with the loss of over 6000 monasteries and temples and the flight of the Dalai Lama, Tibet’s spiritual leader to India. With India and later Karnataka’s support, some 4000 acres of land in Mundgod was given to the Central Tibetan Administration and Tibetan Government in Exile to help resettle Tibetan refugees in Southern India.

Doeguling Tibetan Settlement is made up of 11 camps of which two - Drepung and Ganden - are only for monasteries. The Settlement has seven monasteries of which Drepung is the biggest with a prayer hall that can accommodate over 5000 monks. When you walk inside the monastery, you come face-to-face with large gold-plated statues of Buddha and Tibetan deities. You will see Tibetans dressed in their traditional attire just waiting for the bus or engaged in their daily tasks including praying and studying.

Just being at the Settlement evokes a wonderful feeling of being at complete peace.

The Settlement is the centre of monastic education. Doeguling Monastic University is fashioned after Tibet’s reputed 500 year old Doeguling Monastic University which was destroyed by the Chinese in 1959. It is home to student monks from many countries who receive a Mahayana-Buddhist theological education and live a simple monastic life Today there are more than 8000 monks in the settlement, certainly a Little Tibet!

We had lunch at the local eating house which served authentic Tibetan cuisine. The meat-filled dumplings (momos) and noodles were accompanied with a mild flavored soup called thukpa and fragrant butter tea. Tibetans weave traditional rugs which are sold at handicraft centers located within the village.

As we bid farewell to monk Saldrine, we realize that despite the odds, Tibetans have managed to preserve their culture and way of life. Now you have an opportunity to visit Tibet without leaving India.

The Taj Mahal – Labour of love !

Nothing can quite prepare you for the shock, wonder and, sheer amazement you feel when you see the Taj Mahal for the first time. The best time to visit is at dawn when the sun’s rays catch the white marble of this immense gleaming monument. They say that you should visit the Taj at least twice, at dawn and at sunset. It shines like a jewel on a full moon night, however the government has discontinued night visits.

Built for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal (1593 -1631) by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (1592 -1666), the Taj Mahal at Agra is the ultimate symbol for undying love. As per historians, building the Taj Mahal was her dying wish to her husband. Although Shah Jahan had 3 wives, Mumtaz Mahal was his favourite. They were inseparable and she even accompanied him on his military campaigns. She died in childbirth while delivering her 13^th child. It is said that Shah Jahan was so shocked and depressed that all his hair turned white.

The Taj Mahal was built between 1631 – 1653 AD and took 20,000 labourers 22 years to complete. The entire Taj Mahal complex consists of five major parts, the main gateway, the gardens, the mosque, the rest house and the main mausoleum. The architecture of the Taj Mahal is a fusion of Persian and Islamic architecture. The main focus of the complex is on the tomb. This large, white marble structure stands on a square plinth.The central dome is 58 feet in diameter and 213 feet in height, and stands bordered by four subsidiary domed chambers. The height of the four minarets is 138 feet. The white marble used to clad the monument was sourced from Makrana in Rajasthan. There were twenty eight different types of precious and semi-precious stones inlaid into the white marble. There is beautiful calligraphic work on the Taj Mahal and this consists verses and passages from the holy book of the Koran.

It is said that Shah Jahan cut the hands of his architects and sculptors and even blinded some, so that they would never be able to build a monument as beautiful as the Taj Mahal. In 1657 when Shah Jahan fell ill, Aurangzeb imprisoned him in Agra fort. He crowned himself emperor of India and assumed the title Alamgir (Conqueror of the World) in 1659.

We are extremely lucky to still have the Taj Mahal because apparently during the British rule, the then Governor of India Lord William Bentinck, planned to demolish it and send the marble to England. However the cost of transportation was so high that it was not financially feasible.

In 1983, the Taj Mahal became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was one of the original seven wonders of the world. It is now also one of the seven new wonders of the world.

So what can I say ??? Waah Taj !

( Video courtesy of A. R. Rahman  )

The Iron Pillar – “Rust Proof”!

If you are ever in Delhi and you have a few hours to do some sightseeing, even if you do not see anything else, do not miss seeing the iron pillar of Delhi. This pillar has been a curiosity for archaeologists, metallurgists & historians from the world over. In fact there are those who even believe it was forged by alien technology.

The iron pillar is located in the courtyard of the Qutub Minar complex in Delhi. So what makes this iron pillar so amazing?? The height of the pillar is 23 ft 8 in of which 3 ft 8 in is below the ground. The pillar’s lower diameter is 16 inches and this tapers to 12 inches at the top giving it a bell pattern. It weighs over 6 tons and is made up of 98% pure wrought iron. It is estimated to be 1600 years old and despite being exposed to the rains, winds and temperature fluctuations it has not rusted.

According to historians the pillar was erected by Chandragupta Vikramaditya ( 375 AD – 414 AD )of the Gupta dynasty. It served as a sun dial at Vishnupadagiri in Madhya Pradesh which was a center for astronomical studies. The pillar has an Sanskrit inscription in Brahmi script which states that it was erected in honour of Lord Vishnu and it also praises the valour & qualities of a king referred to as Chandra identified by historians to be Chandragupta Vikramaditya. It was moved to Delhi about a 1000 years ago.

In a report published in the journal Current Science, R. Balasubramaniam of the IIT Kanpur explained how the pillar's resistance to corrosion is due to a passive protective film at the iron-rust interface. The presence of second phase particles (slag and unreduced iron oxides) in the microstructure of the iron, that of high amounts of phosphorus in the metal, and the alternate wetting and drying existing under atmospheric conditions, are the three main factors in the three-stages formation of that protective passive film.

There was a popular belief no doubt bolstered by Indian movies that it was considered good luck or your wishes would be granted if you could stand with your back to the pillar and make your hands meet behind it. A fence erected around the pillar in 1997, protects it from damage that might be caused by visitors.

While we’d like to credit the lack of corrosion of the pillar to metallurgical techniques or even alien technology, in fact the pillar is naturally rust-proofed by the accidental formation of a ‘passive protective film’

As they say “Truth is stranger than fiction”.