Cambodia or Peru? Sharing a similar fate with some lost civilizations, Hampi lay undiscovered for more than 200 years surrounded by jungle growth, a city buried underground. The ruins cover an area of about 25 sq km and was declared a UNESCO protected site in 1986. When Captain John Mackenzie visited the site in 1799, he described the area as abandoned and inhabited by wild beasts. So where is Hampi and what experiences does it offer for today’s intrepid visitors?
Located in the state of Karnataka, Hampi can be accessed by air (Hubli airport), train (Hospet Station), car (about 350 kms from Bangalore, 150 kms from Hubli, 800 kms from Mumbai and 360 kms from Hyderabad).
My guide, Anil Gowde has lived in Hampi all his life. He recalls playing here as a child but had no clue about the magnitude or importance of the ruins. We stayed across the river from Hampi which is a short boat ride away.
As we climb the ridge, we are greeted by a barren rocky landscape. The hillside is dotted with boulders, big and small. Hampi was the last capital of the last great Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagar. Gowde explains that the numerous stone temples were built between the 14th and 16th century. The Vittala Temple complex is the grandest monument in Hampi built over a span of fifty years. Within the complex is an open pillared hall with fifty-six stone pillars that emit different musical notes when struck. Courtesans would dance in the courtyard while the musicians would play music on these pillars. Our group’s dancing skills are not tested this time!.
Another Hampi attraction is the Stone Chariot which appears to mark Hampi’s distinct military history. Legend has it that two brothers, Hukka and Bukka were on a hunting expedition when they saw their dogs being chased by a hare. Their guru saw this as a sign and asked them to set up a city on the site. So the Vijayanagara empire was born in about 1336. Over the next 200 years, four dynasties ruled the kingdom and over 300 stone temples were built.
In earlier times, Hampi was one of the largest trading centers with a global reputation. At the height of its success, the kingdom covered all of South India. Historians dispute the ruin of Hampi, some crediting the Deccan Muslim confederacy’s takeover in 1565 while others suggest that the Vijayanagara rulers left the city in ruin which was escalated by subsequent conquests and abandonment.
Domingo Paes was a Portuguese traveller who visited the Vijayanagara Empire around the year 1520. He wrote "The size of this city I do not write here, because it cannot all be seen from any one spot, but I climbed a hill whence I could see a great part of it; I could not see it all because it lies between several ranges of hills. What I saw from thence seemed to me as large as Rome, and very beautiful to the sight… He also wrote "This is the best provided city in the world, and is stocked with provisions such as rice, wheat, grains, …..
But for pilgrims, Hampi’s past is shrouded in the mists of time. Hampi is said to have evolved from Pampa, the ancient name of the river Tungabhadra. Lord Shiva was so impressed with Pampa’s penance that he offered her a boon. Pampa chose to marry Lord Shiva. Hampi is also reputed to have a connection to the Ramayana.
When Lord Rama and Lakshman were searching for Sita, they visited Hampi where they met Hanuman, the general of the monkey king who was born here. With his monkey army, Hanuman built a bridge to Lanka and rescued Sita.
Hampi is clouded in myth and military stories but one thing is certain. Hampi offers the intrepid visitor a new way of seeing and feeling the beautiful stone city. Hampi is best explored on foot so be prepared to walk and spend more than a day!
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