Sunday, February 27, 2011

Fatehpur Sikhri… City of Victory ?

By Savio D'costa
Not many tourists visiting Agra to see the Taj Mahal, take the time and effort to visit a jewel 40 km away. For a brief period, over 400 years ago during the golden age of the moughal empire, for 12 years, Fatehpur Sikri was the center of the moughal world. You can hardly imagine that behind all the dust, pollution and population of Agra there exists a city still lying intact since the time it was abandoned due to shortage of water.

Our tour begins with a ride in a battery operated bus. No petrol or diesel vehicle is allowed to operate within a few km of the site. Samir my guide explained that Fatehpur Sikri, the city of victory was built as a planned city by Emperor Akbar. He built the city on the site that Sufi saint Salim Chisti prophesied that the emperor would have a son. He even named his son Salim after the Sufi saint. History buffs will never cease to be amazed that in spite of Emperor Akbar’s hectic schedule, he took personal interest in the building of the city.

The construction of Fatehpur Sikri took 14 years. Emperor Akbar was a secular king this is evident in the architecture of the buildings at this site. Fatehpur Sikri is built on a rocky plateau, and is surrounded by a 6 km wall on 3 sides and is strengthened by towers. It has 7 gates. Most of the monuments are built from red sandstone as this was easily available from quarries nearby. The architecture is a combination of Indian, Persian and Muslim styles.

Samir stopped us in a great courtyard. In the center is a pool. He said just imagine Emperor Akhbar relaxing in the evening listening to Tansen, the greatest singer of his time performing on an island in the center of the pool the “Anup Talao”. According to Samir, Akhbar’s three queens used to observe the proceedings from their pavilions. Each had their own place of worship within their residences. According to Samir one of Emperor’s queen’s was a Christian from Goa!

He showed us the Diwan-i-Am, the Hall of Public Audience. This is where Emperor Akbar dispensed justice to his people, the Daulat Khana (Imperial Palace), Diwan-i-Kas (Hall of Private Audience), and the treasury. The grand Buland Darwaza, completed in 1575, celebrated the victory (conquering of Gujarat). Fatehpur Sikhri was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.

Despite being lived in for only 10 years the English traveller Ralph Fitch found in 1585 it was 'considerably larger than London and more populous', comprised a series of palaces, public buildings and mosques, as well as living areas for the court, the army, servants of the king and for an entire population whose history has not been recorded’. The city was abandoned due to lack of water for its increasing population.

Nothing brings out the grandeur, magic and mystique of Fatehpur Sikri as much as the film Jodha Akhbar starring Aishwarya Rai and Hritik Roshan and filmed on location at Fatehpur Sikhri. Hearing the soulful sufi song accompanied by dancing dervishes on a moonlit night will give you Goosebumps! ( Video, courtesy UTI motion pictures ) This is a visit which will definitely be worth your while.

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